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讀衣計畫之 #董陽孜 X ApuJan詹朴
《湍流》

由台灣當代...

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讀衣計畫之 #董陽孜 X ApuJan詹朴
《湍流》

由台灣當代藝術家董陽孜發起並邀請服裝設計師參與的「《#讀衣》藝術時尚跨界展」,今日於華山文化創意產業園區舉行媒體與貴賓預覽。再度參與《讀衣》計畫的 #APUJAN ,以「#湍流」為主題,對應這個動盪年代的不確定感,運用多種織品技法,打造可持續衍生並量產的微型時裝系列,講述另一個關於時間的故事。

湍流可以無限大,也可以無限小。與時代的流轉相比,很多短時間內的混亂不安,急流或是漩渦,如果拉遠拉大來觀看,也許只是另一次的浪起浪落。

用不同的方式呈現湍流,不論是帶有字意完整的書寫字,被拆解的筆劃,或是重組後的線條與墨點。不論是織成梭織緹花布料,印製成印花,或是編織成針織緹花,用不同的織品表現手法,完成一個可以持續衍生的時裝系列。

用帶有東方傳統服飾細節的時裝款式,搭配上現代化的織品技藝,讓書法與服裝,線條與織品,人與墨之間,連結在一起。

首創《讀衣》布料

APUJAN從素材源頭創作,結合台灣紡織技術,開發如半透明緹花、電腦刺繡效果的類織錦等數款原創布料,希望這些布料未來有更多的可能、更多的應用,讓水墨與服裝的結合接觸到更多人。完成多年前董陽孜老師見面邀約時提出讓水墨線條成為無線循環的緹花圖案,應用在不同的織品上的期許。同時運用原有的織品技法,以緹花針織表現線條與人體曲線的互動、梭織緹花表現組織的排列組合、數位印花表現墨色濃淡,多樣化的手法呈現水墨線條與服裝交織的各種可能。

主題形象

一向以形象視覺語彙帶出主題概念的 APUJAN,首屆《讀衣》作品「線與線的對話」將各套服裝拼接成同一個畫面為題,展現人體的線條與書法的線條對話和律動;第二屆作品「線的進行曲」以線條從空間衍生到服裝為題,展現水墨線條從平面到立體的虛實交錯。本屆作品主形象照則特別邀請國際名模Hilda Lee 李晨華演繹,運用各式表現手法訴說水墨線條與人體之間的關聯。

歷時五屆的《讀衣》計畫將於今年邁入終章,APUJAN創意總監 #詹朴 盼望與其一起傳遞、發送訊息:「用不同時間、不同織品,從東方到西方、從過去到未來,訴說那一篇篇關於水墨與線條之美、關於服裝與墨繪的更多可能,即便只是在途中。」

《讀衣》藝術時尚跨界展由團團創新社策劃執行,5/8-5/23 於華山1914文化創意產業園區紅磚區西一和西二館展出,免費入場。

形象攝影| Wang Kai Yun 王愷云
模特兒|Hilda Lee #李晨華
妝髮| 美少女工作室 麵麵 (#張椀雁)


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About author
APUJAN is a newly founded designer label based in London. Designer Apu Jan is originally from Taiwan and recently graduated from Royal College of Art MA Fashion Womenswear (Knitwear). His graduation collection has been broadly covered by various media both in Europe and Asia and received good reviews. In 2013,APUJAN opened the Autumn Winter Fashion Scout schedule during London Fashion Week. The AW 2013 collection titled “Petroleum” is APUJAN’s first womenswear collection since graduating from Royal College of Art.The collection has since been praised by various UK and international press. Dubbed as one of the next Asian designer to watch, APUJAN has featured on the front pages of several Taiwanese national newspapers, as well as prominent UK media including Vogue.com, Wall Paper Magazine, Fashion156.com, and Hello! He has strong knitting skills to construct womenswear with an unique form. The story behind his collection always combines history and fantasy, the real and the surreal. He likes to use traditional oriental elements with modern interpretation. He also likes to blend together the bold innovation with a touch of casualness. His unique approaches reveal his particular cultural background and an extra-ordinary thinking style. He manipulated various knitting techniques creating visually stunning yet physically fitted garments. Patterns are always simple yet imaginative. Graphics are sophisticated, but low-keyed. His clothes are daring and wearable, a best mixture of avant-garde and commercial feasibility. All in all, it has the potential to become a successful ready to wear brand.
London based fashion designer
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